wonderfully wild

Wake up early and hit the road for the easy 3 – 3.5 hour drive from Canberra, down Brown Mountain headed for the coast. Be like the locals and take the back roads through Candelo and Wolumla to enjoy beautiful country scenery passing dairy farms that provide milk for the nearby Bega Cheese Factory. You will start to smell the salty fresh air just north of Eden where the first introduction to the stunning Beowa National Park will invite you in. Take a short detour down the Haycock Road turn off to enter the northern section of the park and travel the unsealed road to the famous Pinnacles, a favourite with geologists and photographers alike. A short 1km loop track through the bush awaits, providing picturesque views of Pinnacles Beach from the cliff edge (look for dolphins surfing the waves) before coming across three platforms to give you sweeping views of this 65 million year old erosion feature in striking colours of white and orange. By now you’ve worked up a hunger so head into Eden and straight to Snug Cove for some harbourside seafood that doesn’t get any fresher. Eden local legend Sepa will be at South Coast Fish Supplies preparing delicious sashimi trays as well as prawn/oyster trays, or you can pop in and see Luke at the Eden Smokehouse for a tasting tray of smoked local mussels, abalone and prawns – that’s if you can go past traditional fish and chips (or maybe enjoy it all!). With full bellies a wander along the wharves is in order where you can watch the fishermen unloading their catch or mending their nets, some who have been doing it for generations. Drop by the Eden Visitor Information Centre housed within the stunning award winning new building at the wharf, marvel at the recycled timbers used in its construction, chat to the local volunteers, grab a map and brochures on the national park and trails and pick up some local produce to take home from Disaster Bay Chillies and Shadrack Creek. Then take the short five minute drive around to the next cove where you can park your car at Cocora Beach, grab your water bottles and head off on the Bundian Way Story Trail. This 2km walk traces the coastline providing fabulous views from platforms and lookouts with storyboards along the way to learn about Eden’s rich indigenous cultural heritage. Featuring words from the local Thaua language, such as katungal (belong to the saltwater), beowa (orca) and gadu (the ocean), learn the story of how for thousands of years local tribal groups traversed the Bundian Way from Turemulerrer (Twofold Bay) to the mountain ranges of Targangal (Kosciuszko). There’s nothing better than a dip in the salt water after a hike, so take the quick five minute drive to Aslings Beach, take off your shoes and feel the sand between your toes as you wander down to the ocean pool tucked into a stunning pink and white cliff face at the southern end of the beach. After a busy active day, it is time for relaxation and rejuvenation so head up to the town’s main street where you cannot miss the sight of Eden’s ‘grand old dame’ – the Hotel Australasia. Here you can let your dreams set sail in the stunning boutique hotel that was originally built in 1904 and was recently reopened after an incredible restoration. Check in to one of only eight luxuriously appointed heritage rooms to enjoy the fluffy white robes, a soak in the claw foot bathtub and a predinner drink on the balcony before heading downstairs to Pikes Bistro for a relaxed dinner featuring fresh local produce and regional beverages.

After enjoying breakfast on your hotel room balcony, head down to Snug Cove to board the Cat Balou for a three hour morning whale watching adventure (seasonal). Eden has its own kind of highway – the Humpback Highway which more than 40,000 whales now travel every spring on their annual migration back to Antarctica. Enjoy comfortable cruising onboard the purpose built catamaran that has ample viewing areas and skilled and knowledgeable crew. During the spring whale watching season you can sometimes spot the first whale before even leaving Twofold Bay and whale sightings are guaranteed during September and October. The experience of watching these gentle majestic giants of the sea breach, tail and pec slap, and maybe even mug the boat, will stay with you forever.

Next on the list is Eden’s famous Killer Whale Trail, a self drive tour that takes you back in time to when boats were made of wood and men were made of steel. Take in views from Rotary Park Lookout before heading to the Eden Killer Whale Museum to learn the incredible story of Old Tom and the Killers of Eden. From here the trail takes you south around the bay to the historic Seahorse Inn perched on Beermuna Beach. It is easy to imagine here on this beach the local Thaua people performing rituals and dances to call in their brothers the beowa (orca), and envisage Ben Boyd’s later dream to build an empire here to rival Sydney. Now all that remains is the beautifully restored Inn where you can enjoy lunch on the lawns whilst soaking up the views back over to the Eden township. Don’t miss the gallery located inside the Inn where local Eden artisans have their work displayed and available for purchase.

The next stop on the trail is the historic Davidson Whaling Station where you will find Loch Garra the old homestead that was home to generations of the whaling family as well the remains of the try works down on the beach. The site, which was home to Australia’s longest operating shore-based whaling station, is now a place of quiet and natural beauty. From here venture a little further along Edrom Road to Boyds Tower, the final stop on the Killer Whale Trail. Stroll along the newly refurbished walkways to enjoy stunning views of the coastline from this southern extremity of Twofold Bay where Eden’s red Devonian rock meets the sea. Go inside the sandstone tower which was originally built to be a lighthouse but never lit, and keep your eyes peeled for the tell-tale blow of the passing Humpback Whales.

Now it’s time for adventure as you head into the deepest parts of Eden’s coastal wilderness, down the unsealed roads of the southern part of Beowa National Park for one of this area’s most stunning hidden secret coves – Bittangabee Bay. Take a dip in the crystal clear waters or just soak up the pure tranquil beauty of this secluded, sheltered spot which is a rewarding stop for those that are hiking the 32km Light to Light Walk through the park. Be on the lookout for some of the locals – large lace monitors (tree goannas) and lyrebirds frequent the area. From here it’s a short drive to Green Cape Lighthouse where you can enjoy rugged coastal views in a wild and windy setting as you admire the southernmost lighthouse in the state. Mind your step for the families of wombats that live here as you wander down the path to the viewing platform on the rocky point. From here you can view Humpback Whales passing (seasonal) as well as the colony of seals that live off the point, before taking a short walk to the Ly-ee-Moon Cemetery to learn the sad tale of the ship that struck tragedy beneath the lighthouse in 1886. On the road out pull off at the Disaster Bay Lookout for jaw dropping views of the coastline south towards the remote Nadgee Wilderness taking in Bay Cliff and Greenglades.

After a full day of exploring and a freshen up in the hotel room, head over the road to enjoy the sunset over Balawan (Mount Imlay) from Florabel Terrace whilst enjoying tapas and cocktails.

After sad farewells to the luxury of the boutique Hotel Australasia grab some croissants and Ona coffee (to go) from Sprout Café, just near the hotel, before taking the short 15 minute drive north to join Navigate Expeditions on a guided kayak trip to remember. Starting at the stunning Pambula River Mouth, take in the crystal clear vibrant turquoise water and beautiful natural surroundings of the tour which is perfect for anyone, regardless of kayaking experience. Expert guides will show you the ropes, and as you paddle up the river, they will point out some of the wildlife and natural features of the Beowa National Park. At Broadwater Oysters, an award-winning Sydney Rock Oyster farm, the team will discuss why oysters are so precious, how they grow, and how the flavours change with the seasons, as well as the best way for handling, storing, and opening (shucking) oysters.

Before heading home drop by Oaklands, a large complex you can’t miss that sits just off the highway and looks just like a huge American style barn. Oaklands is home to a café, garden nursery, gift shop, art gallery, chocolatier and Longstocking Brewery. The brewery, the first craft brewery on the Sapphire Coast, is run by local husband and wife team Pete and Joey and has been operating for more than seven years. Sample some of the impressive 16 different beers made on site with a tasting paddle, perfectly matched with a delicious lunch from the cafe. Grab a six pack of cans or a squealer from the brewery to take home, along with some delicate hand made chocolate delights from Waratah Chocolate and some local produce from the garden shop.

The time has then come to leave the Sapphire Coast, but with a boot full of goodies, a belly full of good food, and a rested mind, it will have certainly been a Wonderfully Wild Weekend.